David Leclapart

This small single domaine champagne producer presents us with striking and original wines. They are not simply 'de nos jours' in the 'small grower' movement. Even within that sometimes hip and fashionable milieu, the champagnes made here are starkly-etched and assertive in a way that makes them stand out. If you want your ear close to Champagne's ground, you need to taste these wines. We recommend them.

The fact his annual average production of roughly 11500 bottles is a slice smaller than it could be from three hectares, even allowing for the 30% of the crop he sells to the 'négoce', suggests he both restricts yields to get increased ripeness and that he loses grapes others might use chemicals to save. Léclapart's apprenticeship in biodynamics at Leclerc-Briant made him a firm believer in the methods and were a condition of his work when he took over from his parents in Trépail. At first he used solid compost preparations 502-7 made at Champagne Fleury in the Aube but now makes his own sprays from horn manure. The estate is Demeter (2000) and Ecocert (2001) certified.

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